This year, I have been spending a family Christmas in Portugal. I have been travelling to Portugal regularly for over 10 years now and it has always been my favourite summer destination for family vacations. I have never considered going there in the winter… but it absolutely exceeded my expectations! Once we got there, I mentioned to my husband how I would like to be able to squeeze a little retreat day for myself in Lisbon. For which he said: ‘Sure, but why would you waste a total of 6 hours on the coach, when you can be one hour train ride away in Coimbra instead?’ Have to admit… sometimes he is a genius. Last time I have been there in 2015. It would be nice to revisit as a different (adult) version of myself. Once the Christmas celebrations dust settled down, my day to spend one day in Coimbra has come.
Coimbra, the historic city (first capital of Portugal), nestled on the banks of the Mondego River, is one of Portugal’s most captivating destinations. It isn’t the easiest to get to as the nearest airport (Lisbon) is located around 2 hours by train, or by Welcome Pickups if you appreciate the comfort of having your own driver, picking you up directly at the airport. However, Coimbra is definitely worth putting on your map if you are going inland Portugal for any reason or stay in the capital for a long time and Porto trips have already been ticked off your list. Coimbra is known for its ancient university, charming streets, and rich cultural heritage. While summer may be the most popular time to visit, December has its own distinct charm. The crisp winter air, quieter streets, and festive holiday atmosphere make it an ideal time to visit. Here’s my own slow pace and laid back one day in Coimbra itinerary (with or without children).
Morning: Start with History and Views
1. Breakfast at Café Santa Cruz
I am a late eater and lover of savoury breakfast, therefore I skipped this meal, but… if you stand for pastries and coffee, begin your day with a cozy breakfast at Café Santa Cruz. One of the oldest and most beloved cafés in Coimbra. Located in a historic building next to Santa Cruz Church, it’s a perfect spot to enjoy a warm coffee and a pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tart). The beautiful, atmospheric interior and the quaint square outside are ideal for soaking up the morning vibes. It is only a 7 minute walk from Estação Comboios – Coimbra A (central train station), which makes a perfect spot to start the journey. Fueled with creamy custard and coffee, just next door, you can step into a famous Santa Cruz church. First kings’ of Portugal tombs are located inside and walls are filled with beautiful azulejos (hand painted tiles) – which are my personal obsession. I now hold a collection of over 40 hand painted tiles of which some date back into the 15th century. Next, walking up at Rua Visconde de la Luz, you can soak up the atmosphere of this old town and its old small shops. Don’t forget to step into the tatty shop for some magnets and mugs to bring home! – those will certainly be China made, if you want more authentic produce – read below.
2. Shop for Local Crafts
Once you spot the red (British) letter box on your left, it is time for some serious climbing. Rua do Arco Almadina will take you through the historic centre and plenty of shops that offer traditional crafts, where you can find unique, locally made items. Look for ceramics, embroidered linens, and handmade jewelry. As I am allergic to anything but stainless steel, A de Amor had the best selection of beautiful jewellery for me to choose from.
3. Explore the University of Coimbra
Well done, you have reached the top. From now on it will only be down – promise! If you have a toddler plus stroller… have you been carrying both of them in each arm? 🙂
Coimbra’s University, one of the oldest in Europe, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the heart of the city’s intellectual life. Tickets to explore Royal Palace and library can be found here. Beware of your timings as the museum was shut for lunch which was exactly the time of my visit. I didn’t want to wait around so I had to skip the interiors but I am sure I will have a chance to come here again! Particular fame to this place is brought by Joanina Library, a baroque masterpiece housing thousands of ancient books. The library’s interiors are rich with history and exude an old-world charm, making it one of Portugal’s most iconic libraries. You can also catch a glimpse of the resident bats—who help protect the books from insects.
After the library, head to the Royal Palace of Alcáçova, where you can wander through the remains of this former royal residence. From here, you’ll have fantastic views of the city and the Mondego River.
3. Wander Through the Botanical Garden
To feel like a Medicine faculty student that just graduated, walk down Escadas Monumentais da Universidade de Coimbra and head to the Botanical Garden. Located just below the main campus, is a peaceful retreat. The garden is still a lovely place to walk, and its terraces provide excellent views of the city below. It’s also a place to enjoy a moment of quiet, away from the busier areas of town. My next stop was the Major Seminary of Coimbra (Seminário Maior de Coimbra) that unfortunately was shut for visitors. I have rested my feet on the swing overlooking the Mondego river (Baloiço do Seminário Maior de Coimbra) and decided to head down to the river to find some food.
Midday: Lunch and Riverside Stroll
4. Lunch by Parque Verde do Mondego
Just by the river, there was a fantastic location for everyone, especially families with kids. Massive green teddy bear to climb on, playground with swings and swans to spot. And what I waited the most for… food! Option of four restaurants: ice-cream, pancakes style, italian, rooftop terrace and quick beer bites. I have opted for the last one as it had an easily accessible wall plug to charge my phone (don’t get me started on raw dogging the train trip and half of my day, because the battery pack went missing the day I needed it!). But I was well chuffed with my Prego sandwich and two fino beers (small 250ml glass) – perfect breakfast/lunch option. Prego no pão is a traditional lunch bite consisting of steak and mustard in a ciabatta style bun, sometimes with salad, cheese, egg. Stunning view of the river compensated for the lack of the phone that was charging inside the restaurant. If you have not yet had a chance to try traditional Portuguese cuisine and you are still in the old town during lunch time – Paço do Conde is the name that I hear from my Portuguese family a lot. Let me know if you liked it!
5. Riverside Walk along the Mondego and Christmas Market
After lunch, cross the Pedro e Inês footbridge, which connects the two sides of the river and offers some of the best views of Coimbra’s historic district. If the weather is sunny, it’s the perfect time to take in the city’s beauty from a new perspective. On the other side, I found Christmas Market. If you are there with kids and you want them entertained – absolutely yes! Lots of rides, food and real owl was also on offer. To hold for the picture… not to eat… just to be clear. But as much as the Portuguese are absolutely overdoing themselves with Christmas lights (which I love!) to compensate for the lack of the spirit that comes with flurries in colder countries, Christmas Market during the day just lacks the vibe. I was walking the red carpet in my t-shirt and sunglasses. Thinking of drinking mulled wine and eating chestnuts (castanhas) just didn’t appeal to me at all.
Afternoon: Art, Culture, and Shopping
6. Discover the Machado de Castro National Museum and Sé Velha
Two options are worth considering if you are time limited just as I was. Back into the old town there is a museum that is a must-visit for any art lover. Housed in an ancient bishop’s palace, the Machado de Castro National Museum features a fascinating collection of Roman and medieval art, sculptures, and decorative arts. The museum’s modern architecture seamlessly blends with the historical setting, creating a unique atmosphere that allows you to explore the city’s layered past. Another one to see is the Old Cathedral of Saint Mary. Opened in 1146 gem that beautifully captures the essence of medieval Portugal.
7. Shopping
If you have had enough of looking at old churches and are happy to look for what Boxing Day sales have on offer – walk along Mondego river and climb the hill to Forum Coimbra for some shopping (if you still have power in your legs). Alternatively, Uber and Bolt in 2024/2025 are super accessible in large and medium cities, so for 3-4 euros you can easily get around.
Evening: Dinner, Fado, and Festive Cheer
8. Dinner at a Traditional Portuguese Tavern
For dinner, enjoy some authentic Portuguese cuisine at one of the local taverns. Taberna d’Almedina is a cozy, family-owned spot where you can try traditional dishes like bacalhau (salt cod) or feijão (beans). The atmosphere is warm and intimate, especially on a chilly December evening. Pair your meal with a glass of Portuguese wine from the nearby Douro Valley and enjoy the flavors of the region.
9. Fado of Coimbra
No visit to Coimbra is complete without experiencing the Fado of Coimbra, a distinctive version of the soulful, melancholic Portuguese music. This style, sung exclusively by men, has been a tradition in Coimbra for centuries and is performed in many venues across the city. In December, you can find intimate performances in small bars or cafés, particularly around the historic center. The haunting melodies of Coimbra’s Fado, with its deep emotional intensity, provide the perfect end to a day of discovery.
10. Stroll Through the Christmas Lights
As night falls, half an hour before your train ride home, take a final walk through the city’s streets, where Christmas lights illuminate the town. Coimbra’s festive decorations, while not as grand as those in Lisbon or Porto, bring a charming warmth to the city.
Tips for Visiting Coimbra in December
- Weather: December in Coimbra can be chilly, so pack accordingly. Layers, a warm coat, and comfortable shoes for walking are essential. There may be rain, so an umbrella can be useful. Or you can be scorched in full sun with mild 17 degrees celsius – be prepared for both options.
- Opening Hours: Some museums or attractions may have reduced hours in winter, so it’s a good idea to check schedules in advance, especially for places like the Joanina Library and restaurants. Restaurants very often open for lunch (12:30-14:30) and re:open for dinner at 6pm. In Portugal it is important to plan your sightseeing around mealtimes and not the other way around. Mondays and Tuesdays some restaurants are shut to allow work-life balance for it’s employees. You want to skip seafood and fish on Monday. Since fishermen don’t fish on Sunday and markets are shut on Monday.
- Crowds: The holiday season means there’s a festive energy in the air, but Coimbra tends to be much quieter than other major cities in Portugal. You’ll likely have a more peaceful experience, especially when exploring the university and historical sites. Students will also be gone for Christmas break – so town might feel less bustling.
Final Thoughts
Coimbra is a city that combines intellectual depth, rich history, and a laid-back charm. Visiting in December, you can avoid the crowds and embrace the quieter, more intimate side of this university town. Whether you’re indulging in local culinary delights, immersing yourself in centuries of culture, or simply enjoying the festive atmosphere, One day in Coimbra offers a perfect winter escape for those seeking to experience a different side of Portugal.
I will be going there in February! I am glad I found this guide. Christmas decorations might be taken down, but Iam sure it will be great!